Seen Fun Porn, cultural differences that keep me smiling

Coincidentally enough, this is not the first time I've uttered the phrase 'seen porn' in relation to school.  In fact, it's not even the second time.  Seen, Fun, and Porn are just a few of my Mattayom 3 (9th grade) students' nicknames.  I'm not lucky enough to have a Beer or two, not even in my Friday classes.  Everyone in Thailand is given a nickname by their parents when they are born.  I don't know the story behind the tradition, but for me it's a blessing since the names around here can be pretty long.  Even if those nicknames are Porn (pronounced pawn--phew!)

I've begun my year-long adventure hitting the ground running.  I've finished my second week of work and my third day with students.  I can already tell this year will be filled with joys and challenges.  I am discovering what my experience here at Nawamin School will teach me.  Patience.  Anyone who knows me knows that I'm always prepared...and, of course, organized is an understatement.  That can all be thrown out the window, because no matter how prepared I am, things change.  Before 11am Friday morning, my students brought the wrong textbook to school because their schedules indicated the other subject I teach them, another teacher walked in in the middle of the same class because administration had double booked us for the same period, and then as I try to be creative with my limited teaching resources, my video won't play.  The Thais would say 'mai pen rai'--no problem!  But I feel very ineffective, and I don't like spending my energy for that result.  I hope soon I will find my stride and feel like I'm making gains with my students.

I do enjoy the students; they are all friendly and very respectful.  And I'm impressed with my students' level of English.  I think because they are Asian there is a misconception about the rigors of education.  That isn't the case: Thai schools are not Chinese schools.    Thai classrooms are very loud, lots of talking that never ceases.  Sounds familiar...

...But where else will I have a classroom of students smiling as they wai (why) me at the beginning of each class?  Where else will a student take his shoes off before entering my office to see me?  Where else will you see 3000 Buddhist students sitting in straight rows in silent meditation in the hot morning sun?  Definitely not in America.  So for these things I am thankful.

But I am also preparing myself for the day my principles will be challenged. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. No one fails in a Thai school. No one. And cheating is an accepted practice; administrators and teachers choose to look the other way. Amazing that something that could get an American teacher fired, and possibly cause her to lose her license, is the norm here. My conscience is not looking forward to this. Maybe how I cope with this is another lesson I am supposed to learn while I'm here.

Chang

Chang is the word for elephant. I was excited to find out that my orientation group would be traveling to Kanchanaburi for an overnight trip to the Kwai river for dinner, rafting, and elephant riding!

 Kanchanaburi is most well known for a bridge built over the River Kwai (it was even made into an Academy Award winning movie called The Bridge Over the River Kwai). During WWII the Japanese had a POW camp in Thailand. Japan wanted to build a railway into Burma to increase communication to its many troops there. Over 100,000 POWs and civilians died in the building of this Death Railway that began in 1942 and completed in 1943.

 Friday morning we set out early for the elephant camp for some rafting and riding. Exciting! The bamboo rafting was fun. We loaded up on the raft and headed down the river. The perfect remedy for the hot sun was jumping in. Floating down the river ended all too soon, but it was on to elephant riding.  I understand some people’s feelings about the exploitation and treatment of animals and their refusal to participate in such activities.  I’d read the book Water for Elephants which opened my eyes to the accepted methods of controlling elephants, but I didn’t think much about it.  I wasn’t looking, but I didn’t see any such devices around the camp…until.  My partner and I loaded onto the bench strapped across our elephant’s back.  I quickly discovered our mahout, riding along on the elephant’s neck, had a hook in his hand.  I immediately became uncomfortable, trying hard to enjoy the ride but too distracted by what the mahout had in his hand.  And for good reason.  I don’t know what the elephant did, but in a flash, the mahout took the back side of the hook and cracked it between the eyes.  It’s a sound I can’t get out of my mind.  I thought I wanted to jump off the elephant’s back at that moment until minutes later I watched the elephant in front of me get hooked in the ear.  Never again.  This picture is for the elephant:

Thailand, A Year in the Life...

Having the experience of living abroad is something I've wanted to do since I studied Shakespeare in London one summer in college.  I've made a few lame attempts at applying over the years, but the idea began swirling around in my mind a few years ago.  We all have lots of ideas that are fleeting, but when they stick, it's time to follow through. Feeling unfulfilled and restless, I knew now was the time to shake things up and reassess my goals and priorities. March 2011 my focus became teaching in Thailand, and with lots of planning and waiting I applied for a placement, and after a few more months of waiting, I received the exciting news that I for certain would be fulfilling my desire to live abroad.  Why Thailand?  I have another goal of visiting all 7 continents before I'm 40 (6 down 1 to go!)  So I thought an extended stay in Thailand with the opportunity to visit other countries was the right choice.  And Thailand seemed so exotic.  What it has turned out to be is hot!

After a week of orientation, I was able to settle in to my new digs, see my new school, and catch a glimpse of my new 'willage' (as my school coordinator says :)).  Although I'm in Bangkok, I'm out in a suburb in Summakorn Village.  I think I'm going to enjoy my little community.  From my 3rd floor office at school I can faintly see the Downtown Bangkok skyline.  Kinda cool.  But now the real test begins--can I overcome the daunting challange of a strange country, acclimate to the culture, and have a positive experience?  There will be other native English speakers working at my school who can share in the experience and make the difficult days a little easier.  I have a little time before students arrive; my first day of school is May 14, the students begin May, 23.  It's ironic that as I'm preparing to leave the profession, I take a job teaching abroad and start a new school year the day before students at home finish their school year. 

I know day by day things will get easier.  The days won't feel as hot.  I'll always remember to carry toilet paper and hand sanitizer with me.  And the food won't taste as spicy.

If you think of me during the next year, send a little light and love my way.  Here's to a year in Thailand!  Sawatdee kha!

Pura Vida!

I learned a new saying today: pura vida--literally the pure life. A saying the Costa Ricans have adopted to mean everything's good. How are you? Pura vida. Guess what, I just got a promotion! Pura vida!

I decided to say an extra day in San Jose to visit one of the many volcanoes here, Volcan Poas. I raised the blinds early this morning to a beautiful day. Pura vida. The tour was on it's way climbing the mountain past coffee plantations, strawberry farms, and fern nurseries under a bright blue sky. Pura vida. The travel guides warned about quickly changing weather conditions. Soon, the skies clouded up and it rained for the rest of the day. We hiked up to the crater lake that was hidden in a pit of clouds. I was only able to catch a glimpse of the terrain and the edge of the lake. I could smell it, though. It a pure sulfuric acid lake that's formed in the crater that, of course, cannot support any life. But it creates an interesting green color that steams and occasionally blows the world's highest geysers at 590'. Central Crater is a mile wide and over 900' deep (2nd largest crater lake in the world). Despite the rain the hike was nice albeit a little trying on the lungs because of the 8660' altitude.

We made our way back down the mountain to the Doka coffee plantation where I learned about harvesting and roasting coffee. Coffee beans are what built this country, and the combination of the perfect climate of the tropical rainforest, the perfect altitude, and the perfect volcanic soil are the reason why.

We finished our tour at the small artisan town of Sarchi recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical, colorfully painted ox carts that were traditionally used to transport coffee beans. Now it's a center for all kinds of Costa Rican crafts.

I've enjoyed my extra day here in San Jose, but I'm excited to get to Puerto Jimenez to see my friends! Bright and early in la mañana.

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¡Adios, amigos!

Today is my last day in Peru. I was going to spend my last afternoon walking around Lima Centro visiting some cathedrals and museums. It was going to fit perfectly into my schedule before I had to leave for el aeropuerto. I took a long walk to the Plaza de Armas. The roads were blocked around the plaza, and I pleasantly discovered that the changing of the guard in front of the Presidential Palace. I came to the plaza to see the famed Catedral. It was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535 who is also buried in a chapel. Over the centuries the cathedral continues to undergo construction and renovation (some due to earthquakes)but still maintains its colonial style. Pizarro was the Spanish conquistador that conquered the Incas and founded Peru. It wasn't until the 1820s that Peru won its independence from Spain. After touring the Catedral I walked a few blocks to the well know Iglesia de San Francisco. Although this church is in ill repair and a little worse for wear, it is the most visited church in Lima because of the "Lima baroque" style of architechture with the Spanish and Moorish influences. It was a beautiful church with the beautiful wood carved ceiling panels, the hand painted Spanish tiles, and hidden fresco paintings on the walls and ceilings. There was an incredible old library that was once used by the monks I was dying to take a picture of, but of course, no photos. One special treat of this old church is the catacombs below. There are an estimated 25,000 people buried in these catacombs hoping to be just a little bit closer to God. Eerie. The Spanish Inquisition made its way all the way over to South America. Lima has a museum dedicated to its history. I was looking forward to this museum. Closed. I stopped for lunch leaving enough time to visit the Museo de Arte. Closed. So much for planning.
Despite the many difficulties I've encountered on this trip, I have seen and done some amazing things. Things I wouldn't have had the opportunity to see or do if I didn't take a chance. Peru has a beautiful landscape of ocean, desert, mountains, and jungle steeped in history and tradition. I'm glad I came, but it always feels good to come home. Adios, Peru.

Woman goes batty while being held hostage in the jungle

My guide and I left the lodge at 6am to head over to another lodge owned by the same company, ExploNapo. This is where the Canopy Walkway is located and the ReNuPeRu project. The Canopy Walkway is one of the world's longest suspended walkways. It was opend in 1994 and is used for Amazon reserchers. It extends over 1/3 mile and reaches a height of 118 ft. The perfect vantage point for viewing Amazon vegetation and wildlife. We even spotted a toucan! After we hiked through the jungle and walked across the canopy, we visited the local shaman. He not only serves the local villages, he also is part of the ReNuPeRu Ethnobotanical Garden Project that teaches doctors and guests about the medicinal plants of the Amazon. It was fascinating to hear about the different plants, trees, barks, saps, and so on that are used to treat anything from snake bites to arthritis to post-delivery care. The shaman performed a ritual to cleanse negativity and bring good luck (a ritual that couldn't have been more timely!). I'm not sure what he did exactly because my eyes were closed and he was behind me. He was chanting, and I smelled herbs burning. After that he drew a toucan tatoo on my arm. It was fun in the moment, but a nice souvenir I'll have for the next 10 days before it fades away.
Afterwards we went looking for the pink freshwater dolphins. We didn't find any. I was able to see some of the Victoria Regia lily pads. They were located in a freshwater lake on an island in the middle of the Amazon River. We are now in the dry season. In only a few more days boats will no longer be able to access the lake because the water level will be too low. I was lucky to see the famously big lily pads. Although these weren't the biggest or prettiest. On the ride we spotted lots of birds (kingfishers, hawks, toucanets) and a few sloths (even a momma sloth with her newborn baby attached to her chest).
After dinner we took a night canoe float to find some night wildlife. Because the canopy covers the cloudy sky above, it is pitch black in the jungle. We were in a tiny, hollowed out, wooden canoe equipped with only paddles and flashlights. The darkness of the jungle is scary in a canoe, especially when you think you're going to tip over into the murky waters of the Amazon River. We saw a few spiders. Very large spiders. And an Amazon boa constrictor in a tree. Just below in a neighboring tree we saw an innocent frog who was soon to be his dinner.
Early Sunday morning I was awakened because I had to go to the bathroom. I heard fluttering wings that were too big to be a moth, although I was hoping it was only a moth. I jumped out of the mosquito netting and ran quickly to the bathroom. I could still hear the fluttering, so I quickly ran back under the safety of the netting on my bed. I flashed my light under the other bed. Two bats flew out from under my bed TOWARDS MY FLASHLIGHT!!! I think I was too scared to scream. For the next 1.5 hours I watched 8 more bats fly out from under the bed. OH, MY GOD!!! After I felt certain that the bats were gone, I started getting ready for breakfast, packing my things to leave. There was a resident green parrot perched on the railing outside my room. He greeted me with an Hola, buenas dias. So I said good morning back. He had followed me into my room. I wasn't sure how close to get to the parrot. Would he bite my face off? I don't know. But he wouldn't let me pass. He started hissing at me. Then he bit my shoe. I got around him and finished packing my bag. I was ready to leave the room, but he wouldn't let me. He was holding me hostage in my room! He hiss and bit more until I finally shuffled my way out. I later found out this parrot doesn't like women. After the bats and the parrots, it was time to move on.
The jungle is a fascinating place. Very alive.

Welcome to the jungle!

I arrived one day late for my Amazon adventure. The owner of the lodge has been very kind and accommodating. I was picked up early Friday morning to head 50 miles downriver to Explorama Lodge. The lodge is rustic and set in primary forest (untouched, undeveloped, virgin jungle--not a reserve). There is only limited electricity in the kitchen, dining "room", and "lounge."--which also happen to be the only places that are fully screened in. My room has 4 walls and no ceiling, only lattice covering the window opening. But I do have a private bath complete with cold water. At dusk kerosene lanterns are lit in the rooms and around camp. The shadows that are cast by jungle creatures gave me the willies. I slept soundly inside the safety of mosquito netting.
I met a great lady from Pennsylvania who brought a small group down to do some work for Adopt-a-School. She's been coming for years bring school supplies for the teachers and children. She trades things for their handicrafts, takes the handicrafts back to the states to sell, and sends the money back to the villagers. This money is enough to keep the school operating for another school year. A very special lady to these people doing very special work.
After lunch and a nap in the hammock, my guide took me over to visit the local village of the Yagua's (red people). Their culture is dying. Young people are attracted to the opportunities in the bigger towns and cities. The Yaguas have reconstructed a village for demonstration: culture, dances, dress. I danced and tried my hand (or mouth) at the blowgun. Nailed the target! They make money from selling their handicrafts. I bought a a few things. I even had the opportunity to cuddle a little girl's pet sloth. What an interesting creature!
It was early to bed for an early start the following morning.
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