Peace, Love, and Floating Lanterns

I had the pleasure of experiencing the Loy Krathong and Yeepeng festivals this week.  Two different festivals following two different calendars derived over hundreds of years from two different regions yet coinciding on the November full moon.

I had been planning a second trip up to Chiang Mai for the Yeepeng festival and didn’t give Loy Krathong much thought.  Happenstance provided a neat experience of its own.  A co-worker who also owns a restaurant with his Thai wife invited my friend and I to make our own krathongs.  Although my first crack at making a krathong looked like a first grader’s art project, it was still a lot of fun to be involved in the festivities.  The krathong’s base is a slice of banana tree stalk that’s covered with decoratively folded banana leaves.  It’s then decorated with flowers, one candle to honor Buddha with light, and three sticks of incense for purification.  For good measure a coin is added for prosperity and a clipping of hair to symbolize what is old and unwanted.  The krathong is released in the water as a symbolic gesture of letting go of negative thoughts and feelings.  Loy Krathong has been celebrated for over 700 years.  It is believed to have begun as a Hindu festival that honored the Goddess of Water thanking her for the harvest and asking her forgiveness for polluting the waters.  This festival was later adopted by Thai Buddhists who have continued the tradition of honoring the water spirits as well as venerating Buddha.  Whatever the individual belief or practice, the community was involved—couples and families together at the edge of the lake releasing their krathongs.  The candlelit krathongs on the dark lake full of the intention were beautiful.  An evening I would have otherwise missed.

I made a whirlwind trip up to Chiang Mai to experience the beauty of the northern festival of light: Yeepeng.  The famous floating lanterns.  Over time this Lanna celebration has evolved into a ‘sky’ version of Loy Krathong.  The releasing of the sky lanterns was preceded by a ceremony led by monks who prayed, chanted, and meditated in order to focus the mind on pure thoughts and  the intention of the evening: honoring Buddha through peace and love.  With my thoughts focused on peace and love, I made my wish and released my lantern.  It is a magnificent, stunning sight to see thousands of lanterns glowing against the night sky as they drift away to fulfill the wishes.  

Myanmar

Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) was not a place I had a specific interest in visiting while spending a year traveling around Thailand and Southeast Asia.  Nashville is a designated settlement city for Burmese refugees, so I knew there was unrest in the country--brutal military suppression that the Burmese people have been fighting against for almost 25 years in favor of a democracy.  Most famously, Aung San Suu Kyi has been the face of democracy for Myanmar.  As leader of the National League for Democracy, the government has seen her as a political threat.  She was placed under house arrest for nearly 15 years even receiving the Noble Peace Prize in 1991 for her efforts.  For 50 years the state has been under military rule.  Even with overwhelming majority support for the democratic movement, the military refused to recognize the state as a democracy.  Only in the last year has the military begun to release its grip.  Yet military loyalists will remain in government and support the corrupt military's agenda, an agena that has economically ruined Myanmar.  Although this transition to a democracy is good news, there have been far too many people who have suffered at the hands of the military.

Despite how the military has marred its country, Myanmar is beautiful.  Authentic and unspoiled by western, international, or commerical influences. I was fortunate enough to be invited to Myanmar by a colleague.  I enjoyed the unique experience of being a guest taken in by her family who shared their home.  We had interesting conversations about conflicting family support for the developing democracy in Myanmar while we drove around visiting the sights.  The most impressive was the Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar's landmark. The gold pagoda sits atop a hill and at over 300' high can be seen from all over the city.  It's over 2,600 years old and thought to have been built to enshrine a few of the Lord Buddha's hairs, or so the story goes...

 I was able to check off another of my life's 'to dos' on this trip--hot air ballooning.  We were up at the crack of dawn to watch the sun rise over the pagoda ruins of Bagan while the early morning mist gave the temples an air of mystery.  From high above we watched the farmers set about their day in the fields.  What a beautiful way to experience what's left of over 2,000 temples sprinled across the landscape.

Views from the Third Floor: Culture Shock

When most people think of the word 'culture shock,' they think of the immediate, in-your-face differences that travelers find uncomfortable and well, foreign, when visiting other places.  It is much more than that, and I have been in the throes of culture shock for about six weeks.  Just like grief or addiction recovery there are steps and phases:

• the honeymoon phase
• negotiation phase
• adjustment phase
• mastery phase

I'm in the negotiation phase, very, very, very slowly making my way into the adjustment phase.  I'm not curled in the fetal position under the covers in the dark although I do miss friends and family very much. I feel frustrated, annoyed, and anxious much of the time.  I crave what is familiar.  I miss the things that have made my life comfortable, convenient, and easy.  I don't like that I wash my dishes in a tub while squatting on my bathroom floor.  I don't like that a trip to the grocery story is so involved.  I don't like that a rain shower can completely ruin my plans.  I miss variety, diversity and individuality.  Everything is 'same-same' here.  Everyone looks the same: black hair, black eyes, brown skin, same uniform, same shoes, same haircut, same hair bow.  What's for breakfast?  Rice and noodles.  What's for lunch?  Rice and noodles.  What's for dinner?  Rice and noodles. Thailand has one season, and it's hot and humid. 

People have asked me if I plan on staying longer.  Hell no.  The Thai lifestyle goes against everything I am made up of, and I think I would go insane.  If anyone could describe me using 3 words I'm sure they would be: 1) organized  2) neat  3) clean.  Thai people are poor communicators; they can't explain anything to you because they don't know themselves, nor do they seem interested in knowing for themselves.  Details are not important here.  Ignorance is bliss is becoming a new mantra.  I like to know what is going on.  I always have a plan, but here, even the best laid plans often go awry.  If I hear "Oh, I forgot to tell you..." one more time I might go postal.  Time is also of no consequence.  When you are asked to do something, it means right now, not at your earliest convenience.  Or you could sit around waiting and waiting and waiting.

The acceptable level of sanitation keeps me constantly amazed.  Bangkok smells like sewage gas and moth balls--even in my apartment.  How many people--adults--have I watched walk straight out of a toilet stall and out the door without a pit stop at the sink???  Too many.  Ugh.  Nose picking is an accepted practice here.  Excuse me, nose digging.  God, what do they do with it after.  I don't know because I stop looking.  Insects don't really bother me anymore.  I have lifted my plate off the dining table to allow a cockroach to scurry across it.  And I have picked numerous ants out of food and drink.  I've learned to deal with it. 

You may be reading this and thinking Robin's attitude stinks!  The honeymoon phase has worn off and this is my everyday, my reality.  I don't have easy ways to vent, and I can't take a break from it. It's fun and exciting on a two-week holiday, but the practical, modified, pared down life I am living has taken its toll.  I don't feel like my whole self.  I find it distracting, and it's making me restless.  My week is mundane, quite boring actually.  It's the adventure of the weekends that keeps me here.  It's the little moments and the friendships I've made that do make working through the frustrations worth it.

Now that's a mouthful!

I bet you probably didn't know that Bangkok isn't really Bangkok, it's Krung Thep Mahanakhon to the locals.  In fact it boasts the longest place name in the world:

Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit

And that simply means "City of Angels" (it's easy to understand why everyone has a nickname around here).  There is conflicting information as to whether this is 'officially' a Guinness World Record title.  Whatever.  Hands down, Krung Thep wins.

The name is acutally more a history of the city than a name:

krungthep mahanakhonThe land of angels, the great city of

amorn rattanakosinimmortality, various of devine gems,

mahintara yudthaya mahadilok pohpthe great angelic land unconquerable,

noparat rajathanee bureeromland of nine noble gems, the royal city, the pleasant capital,

udomrajniwes mahasatarnplace of the grand royal palace,

amorn pimarn avaltarnsatitforever land of angels and reincarnated spirits,

sakatattiya visanukram prasitpredestined and created by the highest devas.

There is also uncertainty as to how the name Bangkok derived.  Whatever it is, it stuck with the farangs.  And so Krung Thep will forever be known to the rest of the world as Bangkok.

Dhamma Day: and a lesson in Buddhism

When I arrived to work this morning, I was looking forward to my 7:00pm flight to Phuket for a 4-day holiday weekend on a tropical island beach with friends courtesy of the enlightened Lord Buddha.  Once I got to school, I discovered that there was a special alms ceremony to begin the holiday weekend.  My colleague Ajarn Jay (a native Missourian and 25-year expat Buddhist) invited me to come to the ceremony....But before I continue, a brief lesson on Buddha, Buddhism, and Dhamma Day:

Friday marks the day that Theravada Buddhists celebrate Dhamma Day, also known as Asalha Puja or Asanha Puja Day (*nothing is spelled the same way twice using the Roman alphabet*). The festival is celebrated on the full moon day of the eighth lunar month. Dhamma Day commemorates the first teaching of the Buddha.  After the Buddha attained enlightenment, or gained realization of the truth about reality, Buddha traveled throughout India from the city of Bodh Gaya to the deer park in Sarnath. Today, both Sarnath and Bodh Gaya are major sacred Buddhist sites.  Upon reaching Sarnath, the Buddha gave lessons to his five original disciples. Those lessons delivered by the Buddha are often referred to as “the first turning of the wheel of dhamma.”  Dhamma comes from the ancient Pali term Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta. Dhamma is the teaching of the Buddha and includes norms of behavior and ethical rules.  At this time, the Buddha told his disciples about the Four Noble Truths. The Four Noble Truths are: life is suffering, the cause of suffering is craving, suffering can be eliminated by the extinguishing of craving, and there is a way to achieve this goal.  The Buddha prescribed the Eightfold Path as the way to achieve the goal of extinguishing craving. The steps are: right understanding, right intent, right speech, right conduct, right livelihood, right effort, right mindfulness and right concentration. Throughout the world, the Four Noble Truths and the Eightfold Path remain central doctrines in Buddhism.  Finally, the Buddha spoke about the Middle Way. The Middle Way is an avoidance of the extremes of indulgence and asceticism. The Buddha believed the Middle Way led to knowledge, calm and self-awakening.  Dhamma Day coincides with the beginning of monsoon season, when the Buddha and his nuns and monks would suspend their wandering lifestyle for three months. The heavy rains would prevent them from journeying forward. They would use this time for meditation and reflection. At the end the rainy season, they would resume traveling and passing on the Buddha’s teachings.

Dhamma Day is a chance to express gratitude to the Buddha and other enlightened teachers. Many celebrate Dhamma Day by reading Buddhist scriptures and listening to sermons. Monks receive small gifts such as food and candles on Dhamma Day. Monasteries in countries such as Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar hold three monthlong “rains retreats” shortly after Dhamma Day. The rain retreats are used as a time for study, meditation and teaching new monks.

*taken from: http://www.columbiamissourian.com/stories/2008/07/16/dhamma-day-celebrates-buddhist-teachers/

Monks collect alms (food and money, whatever is needed to help them sustain their lifestyle in the temples). Buddhists make merit by showing gratitude through offerings, and Ajarn Jay was kind enough to share his offering with me.  He received more merit by sharing, and I earned merit by giving the food.  It was a win, win for all!  It was a satisfying feeling to stand among 3000 students who have the inherent qualities of generosity and gratitude.  I found some of my M3 students to share the experience with--and I think they appreciated my interest and participation.  We waited together for the monks to make their rounds.  I was aware that monks cannot touch women, but I learned today that they cannot even take something directly from a woman's hands.  As you can see from the photo below, I had to place my offering in the alms bowl first.

So, needless to say, later in the morning I found my gratitude in a much purer place.

wokin' hard in the kitchen

I've heard great things about Thai cooking classes, so I decided to plan a weekend in town and take one.  I even got a friend to do it, too!  The Silom Thai Cooking School--sounds fancy, but it's tucked away at the back of a long, narrow alley on the third floor of a small apartment building, as quaint as it can be.

We met at the market to pick up the supplies on our menu and learn a few things about the vegetables, herbs, and other ingredients we would use.  Including chilies from set your hair on fire inferno hot to they're only used to add color.  I'm a mai sai prik (or a 'ah no spy-CEE') kind of a girl, so if it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it's too hot!...or something like that...At least I was able to control the spiciness of my own dishes, and my taste buds actually enjoyed some delicious Thai food for a change.  Because there's nothing worse than have the spice hit you in the back of your throat--the kind that makes you cough and your eyes water.  Especially when you have to ration your water because you're no longer in the land of free drink refills.  But I digress.

They had the tiny 3 room apartment running like a fine oiled machine with at least 15 students cutting and stirring and eating and never getting in one another's way.  It was traditional cooking in the sense that we were preparing our food while sitting on the floor.  Despite having strangers' bare feet within inches of my food, I was into the experience.  Kind of liberating.

My favorite dishes:

• Chicken Galangal Coconut Soup (tom-kha-gai)--it was very much like tom-yum without the intense spiciness and a different base. 
• Fried Cashew Nuts with Chicken (gai-pad-med-mamaung)--lightly fried cubes of chicken, cashews, and vegetables, lightly coated in a sweet sauce. 
• Desert Banana in Coconut Milk (khluy-buad-chee)--it's as simple and delicious as it sounds (I think.  I don't remember preparing this).

It was a fun day!  What's great about this cooking school is that they offer several different courses (menus) on different days, so I plan to go back and learn how to make some of my other Thai favs--vegetable fried rice (khao-pad-pak) and green papaya salad (som-tam).  I can't wait to come home and test these recipes out for friends and family and share this part of my experience.  Cheers!

Wai Kru

Wai Kru (why crew): teacher appreciation day in Thailand

Wai Kru is celebrated in schools and universities all over Thailand at the start of the school year on a selected Thursday in the month of June.  It is a ceremony that is steeped in culture and religion.  I was able to participate in my first Wai Kru last Thursday.  The school was buzzing with excitement and last minute preparations by the students.  Walking to my office, I was stopped by a group of my M3 girls who presented me with my very first phuang malai (a small jasmine garland arrangment).  They had one for all of their teachers.  I've seen these around either being sold in stalls or on street corners, hanging from the taxi's rearview mirror, or drapped over an alter to Buddha.  What I learned is that it is given as a small gesture of thanks and respect.  I appreciated it--and it smell divine!  Later in the day, I was given another garland by more students.

Because our school is so large, the ceremony was held 3 times.  I don't know how many times one teacher needs to be a part of the ceremony, but this farang got to do it twice!--including listening to the 20 minute speech in Thai by an 89 year old woman in a warm auditorium.  Yay!  But I'm being facetious.  It was a lovely ceremony that I was honored to be a part of.  One boy and one girl were chosen from each class to present beautiful floral arrangements to the teachers.  As the students entered the stage they immediately kneeled, walking only on their knees.  First stopping to krab to the Buddha and the King, then krabbing to the teachers before presenting us with the flowers.  Although there were several hundred, maybe a thousand, people in the room, it felt very personal and very intimate to have someone prostrate themselves to me in that way.  Something I'm not used to as a westerner.  There was something special about the care that was put into the ceremony and witnessing the respect they have for teachers and the institution of education, and that it involved the participation of the students.  A very authentic Thai experience....And then it was back to the real world of incessant talking and copying work.

My M6 students came to sing me a song in Thai about respecting their teachers.

One of my M3 students krabbing me before presenting me with flowers.

Wai Kru ceremony #1.  No one told me there was a dress code, and I had to wear this stupid blazer.

Seen Fun Porn, cultural differences that keep me smiling

Coincidentally enough, this is not the first time I've uttered the phrase 'seen porn' in relation to school.  In fact, it's not even the second time.  Seen, Fun, and Porn are just a few of my Mattayom 3 (9th grade) students' nicknames.  I'm not lucky enough to have a Beer or two, not even in my Friday classes.  Everyone in Thailand is given a nickname by their parents when they are born.  I don't know the story behind the tradition, but for me it's a blessing since the names around here can be pretty long.  Even if those nicknames are Porn (pronounced pawn--phew!)

I've begun my year-long adventure hitting the ground running.  I've finished my second week of work and my third day with students.  I can already tell this year will be filled with joys and challenges.  I am discovering what my experience here at Nawamin School will teach me.  Patience.  Anyone who knows me knows that I'm always prepared...and, of course, organized is an understatement.  That can all be thrown out the window, because no matter how prepared I am, things change.  Before 11am Friday morning, my students brought the wrong textbook to school because their schedules indicated the other subject I teach them, another teacher walked in in the middle of the same class because administration had double booked us for the same period, and then as I try to be creative with my limited teaching resources, my video won't play.  The Thais would say 'mai pen rai'--no problem!  But I feel very ineffective, and I don't like spending my energy for that result.  I hope soon I will find my stride and feel like I'm making gains with my students.

I do enjoy the students; they are all friendly and very respectful.  And I'm impressed with my students' level of English.  I think because they are Asian there is a misconception about the rigors of education.  That isn't the case: Thai schools are not Chinese schools.    Thai classrooms are very loud, lots of talking that never ceases.  Sounds familiar...

...But where else will I have a classroom of students smiling as they wai (why) me at the beginning of each class?  Where else will a student take his shoes off before entering my office to see me?  Where else will you see 3000 Buddhist students sitting in straight rows in silent meditation in the hot morning sun?  Definitely not in America.  So for these things I am thankful.

But I am also preparing myself for the day my principles will be challenged. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. No one fails in a Thai school. No one. And cheating is an accepted practice; administrators and teachers choose to look the other way. Amazing that something that could get an American teacher fired, and possibly cause her to lose her license, is the norm here. My conscience is not looking forward to this. Maybe how I cope with this is another lesson I am supposed to learn while I'm here.

Chang

Chang is the word for elephant. I was excited to find out that my orientation group would be traveling to Kanchanaburi for an overnight trip to the Kwai river for dinner, rafting, and elephant riding!

 Kanchanaburi is most well known for a bridge built over the River Kwai (it was even made into an Academy Award winning movie called The Bridge Over the River Kwai). During WWII the Japanese had a POW camp in Thailand. Japan wanted to build a railway into Burma to increase communication to its many troops there. Over 100,000 POWs and civilians died in the building of this Death Railway that began in 1942 and completed in 1943.

 Friday morning we set out early for the elephant camp for some rafting and riding. Exciting! The bamboo rafting was fun. We loaded up on the raft and headed down the river. The perfect remedy for the hot sun was jumping in. Floating down the river ended all too soon, but it was on to elephant riding.  I understand some people’s feelings about the exploitation and treatment of animals and their refusal to participate in such activities.  I’d read the book Water for Elephants which opened my eyes to the accepted methods of controlling elephants, but I didn’t think much about it.  I wasn’t looking, but I didn’t see any such devices around the camp…until.  My partner and I loaded onto the bench strapped across our elephant’s back.  I quickly discovered our mahout, riding along on the elephant’s neck, had a hook in his hand.  I immediately became uncomfortable, trying hard to enjoy the ride but too distracted by what the mahout had in his hand.  And for good reason.  I don’t know what the elephant did, but in a flash, the mahout took the back side of the hook and cracked it between the eyes.  It’s a sound I can’t get out of my mind.  I thought I wanted to jump off the elephant’s back at that moment until minutes later I watched the elephant in front of me get hooked in the ear.  Never again.  This picture is for the elephant:

Thailand, A Year in the Life...

Having the experience of living abroad is something I've wanted to do since I studied Shakespeare in London one summer in college.  I've made a few lame attempts at applying over the years, but the idea began swirling around in my mind a few years ago.  We all have lots of ideas that are fleeting, but when they stick, it's time to follow through. Feeling unfulfilled and restless, I knew now was the time to shake things up and reassess my goals and priorities. March 2011 my focus became teaching in Thailand, and with lots of planning and waiting I applied for a placement, and after a few more months of waiting, I received the exciting news that I for certain would be fulfilling my desire to live abroad.  Why Thailand?  I have another goal of visiting all 7 continents before I'm 40 (6 down 1 to go!)  So I thought an extended stay in Thailand with the opportunity to visit other countries was the right choice.  And Thailand seemed so exotic.  What it has turned out to be is hot!

After a week of orientation, I was able to settle in to my new digs, see my new school, and catch a glimpse of my new 'willage' (as my school coordinator says :)).  Although I'm in Bangkok, I'm out in a suburb in Summakorn Village.  I think I'm going to enjoy my little community.  From my 3rd floor office at school I can faintly see the Downtown Bangkok skyline.  Kinda cool.  But now the real test begins--can I overcome the daunting challange of a strange country, acclimate to the culture, and have a positive experience?  There will be other native English speakers working at my school who can share in the experience and make the difficult days a little easier.  I have a little time before students arrive; my first day of school is May 14, the students begin May, 23.  It's ironic that as I'm preparing to leave the profession, I take a job teaching abroad and start a new school year the day before students at home finish their school year. 

I know day by day things will get easier.  The days won't feel as hot.  I'll always remember to carry toilet paper and hand sanitizer with me.  And the food won't taste as spicy.

If you think of me during the next year, send a little light and love my way.  Here's to a year in Thailand!  Sawatdee kha!

Pura Vida!

I learned a new saying today: pura vida--literally the pure life. A saying the Costa Ricans have adopted to mean everything's good. How are you? Pura vida. Guess what, I just got a promotion! Pura vida!

I decided to say an extra day in San Jose to visit one of the many volcanoes here, Volcan Poas. I raised the blinds early this morning to a beautiful day. Pura vida. The tour was on it's way climbing the mountain past coffee plantations, strawberry farms, and fern nurseries under a bright blue sky. Pura vida. The travel guides warned about quickly changing weather conditions. Soon, the skies clouded up and it rained for the rest of the day. We hiked up to the crater lake that was hidden in a pit of clouds. I was only able to catch a glimpse of the terrain and the edge of the lake. I could smell it, though. It a pure sulfuric acid lake that's formed in the crater that, of course, cannot support any life. But it creates an interesting green color that steams and occasionally blows the world's highest geysers at 590'. Central Crater is a mile wide and over 900' deep (2nd largest crater lake in the world). Despite the rain the hike was nice albeit a little trying on the lungs because of the 8660' altitude.

We made our way back down the mountain to the Doka coffee plantation where I learned about harvesting and roasting coffee. Coffee beans are what built this country, and the combination of the perfect climate of the tropical rainforest, the perfect altitude, and the perfect volcanic soil are the reason why.

We finished our tour at the small artisan town of Sarchi recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical, colorfully painted ox carts that were traditionally used to transport coffee beans. Now it's a center for all kinds of Costa Rican crafts.

I've enjoyed my extra day here in San Jose, but I'm excited to get to Puerto Jimenez to see my friends! Bright and early in la mañana.

Sent from my iPhone

¡Adios, amigos!

Today is my last day in Peru. I was going to spend my last afternoon walking around Lima Centro visiting some cathedrals and museums. It was going to fit perfectly into my schedule before I had to leave for el aeropuerto. I took a long walk to the Plaza de Armas. The roads were blocked around the plaza, and I pleasantly discovered that the changing of the guard in front of the Presidential Palace. I came to the plaza to see the famed Catedral. It was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535 who is also buried in a chapel. Over the centuries the cathedral continues to undergo construction and renovation (some due to earthquakes)but still maintains its colonial style. Pizarro was the Spanish conquistador that conquered the Incas and founded Peru. It wasn't until the 1820s that Peru won its independence from Spain. After touring the Catedral I walked a few blocks to the well know Iglesia de San Francisco. Although this church is in ill repair and a little worse for wear, it is the most visited church in Lima because of the "Lima baroque" style of architechture with the Spanish and Moorish influences. It was a beautiful church with the beautiful wood carved ceiling panels, the hand painted Spanish tiles, and hidden fresco paintings on the walls and ceilings. There was an incredible old library that was once used by the monks I was dying to take a picture of, but of course, no photos. One special treat of this old church is the catacombs below. There are an estimated 25,000 people buried in these catacombs hoping to be just a little bit closer to God. Eerie. The Spanish Inquisition made its way all the way over to South America. Lima has a museum dedicated to its history. I was looking forward to this museum. Closed. I stopped for lunch leaving enough time to visit the Museo de Arte. Closed. So much for planning.
Despite the many difficulties I've encountered on this trip, I have seen and done some amazing things. Things I wouldn't have had the opportunity to see or do if I didn't take a chance. Peru has a beautiful landscape of ocean, desert, mountains, and jungle steeped in history and tradition. I'm glad I came, but it always feels good to come home. Adios, Peru.

Woman goes batty while being held hostage in the jungle

My guide and I left the lodge at 6am to head over to another lodge owned by the same company, ExploNapo. This is where the Canopy Walkway is located and the ReNuPeRu project. The Canopy Walkway is one of the world's longest suspended walkways. It was opend in 1994 and is used for Amazon reserchers. It extends over 1/3 mile and reaches a height of 118 ft. The perfect vantage point for viewing Amazon vegetation and wildlife. We even spotted a toucan! After we hiked through the jungle and walked across the canopy, we visited the local shaman. He not only serves the local villages, he also is part of the ReNuPeRu Ethnobotanical Garden Project that teaches doctors and guests about the medicinal plants of the Amazon. It was fascinating to hear about the different plants, trees, barks, saps, and so on that are used to treat anything from snake bites to arthritis to post-delivery care. The shaman performed a ritual to cleanse negativity and bring good luck (a ritual that couldn't have been more timely!). I'm not sure what he did exactly because my eyes were closed and he was behind me. He was chanting, and I smelled herbs burning. After that he drew a toucan tatoo on my arm. It was fun in the moment, but a nice souvenir I'll have for the next 10 days before it fades away.
Afterwards we went looking for the pink freshwater dolphins. We didn't find any. I was able to see some of the Victoria Regia lily pads. They were located in a freshwater lake on an island in the middle of the Amazon River. We are now in the dry season. In only a few more days boats will no longer be able to access the lake because the water level will be too low. I was lucky to see the famously big lily pads. Although these weren't the biggest or prettiest. On the ride we spotted lots of birds (kingfishers, hawks, toucanets) and a few sloths (even a momma sloth with her newborn baby attached to her chest).
After dinner we took a night canoe float to find some night wildlife. Because the canopy covers the cloudy sky above, it is pitch black in the jungle. We were in a tiny, hollowed out, wooden canoe equipped with only paddles and flashlights. The darkness of the jungle is scary in a canoe, especially when you think you're going to tip over into the murky waters of the Amazon River. We saw a few spiders. Very large spiders. And an Amazon boa constrictor in a tree. Just below in a neighboring tree we saw an innocent frog who was soon to be his dinner.
Early Sunday morning I was awakened because I had to go to the bathroom. I heard fluttering wings that were too big to be a moth, although I was hoping it was only a moth. I jumped out of the mosquito netting and ran quickly to the bathroom. I could still hear the fluttering, so I quickly ran back under the safety of the netting on my bed. I flashed my light under the other bed. Two bats flew out from under my bed TOWARDS MY FLASHLIGHT!!! I think I was too scared to scream. For the next 1.5 hours I watched 8 more bats fly out from under the bed. OH, MY GOD!!! After I felt certain that the bats were gone, I started getting ready for breakfast, packing my things to leave. There was a resident green parrot perched on the railing outside my room. He greeted me with an Hola, buenas dias. So I said good morning back. He had followed me into my room. I wasn't sure how close to get to the parrot. Would he bite my face off? I don't know. But he wouldn't let me pass. He started hissing at me. Then he bit my shoe. I got around him and finished packing my bag. I was ready to leave the room, but he wouldn't let me. He was holding me hostage in my room! He hiss and bit more until I finally shuffled my way out. I later found out this parrot doesn't like women. After the bats and the parrots, it was time to move on.
The jungle is a fascinating place. Very alive.

Welcome to the jungle!

I arrived one day late for my Amazon adventure. The owner of the lodge has been very kind and accommodating. I was picked up early Friday morning to head 50 miles downriver to Explorama Lodge. The lodge is rustic and set in primary forest (untouched, undeveloped, virgin jungle--not a reserve). There is only limited electricity in the kitchen, dining "room", and "lounge."--which also happen to be the only places that are fully screened in. My room has 4 walls and no ceiling, only lattice covering the window opening. But I do have a private bath complete with cold water. At dusk kerosene lanterns are lit in the rooms and around camp. The shadows that are cast by jungle creatures gave me the willies. I slept soundly inside the safety of mosquito netting.
I met a great lady from Pennsylvania who brought a small group down to do some work for Adopt-a-School. She's been coming for years bring school supplies for the teachers and children. She trades things for their handicrafts, takes the handicrafts back to the states to sell, and sends the money back to the villagers. This money is enough to keep the school operating for another school year. A very special lady to these people doing very special work.
After lunch and a nap in the hammock, my guide took me over to visit the local village of the Yagua's (red people). Their culture is dying. Young people are attracted to the opportunities in the bigger towns and cities. The Yaguas have reconstructed a village for demonstration: culture, dances, dress. I danced and tried my hand (or mouth) at the blowgun. Nailed the target! They make money from selling their handicrafts. I bought a a few things. I even had the opportunity to cuddle a little girl's pet sloth. What an interesting creature!
It was early to bed for an early start the following morning.
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Perspective

I chose to do the trek because I wanted the challenge. I like pushing my limits, finding out where they are and see what I can accomplish on the way. Was it an unforgettable experience? Yes. Was it enjoyable? Absolutely. Even the hard parts. Would I do it again? Don't need to.
Walking into the remoteness of one of the world's biggest mountain ranges provides perspective. As I marveled at God's great creation, I quickly realized how small and insignificant I am. So wrapped up in my own life, I'm missing the big picture. It really made me think about my future. What am I doing to make my mark? What will my legacy be? Something to ponder...

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Machu Picchu, nice to meet you!

I was going off the grid for 4 days. There was nothing I could do about rearranging my travel plans, so I lived in the moment and had an incredibly wonderful experience hiking the Inca Trail. The Inca Trail, high in the Andes Mountains, is a 31 mile hike on the original road that led to Machu Picchu, the Lost City of the Incas. I had the option of a 20 minute bus ride up the side of the mountain, but where's the adventure in that?
Day 1: The official check in was at 10am, and we were on our way. The starting altitude was 8790 ft. The altitude would pose an issue to any hiker even natives of the Sacred Valley. The solution was to chew coca leaves or drink coca de mate tea--and lots of it! Day 1 climb was not too bad, but we did cover a lot of ground, about 9 miles. We saw our first Inca ruins and learned a lot about the Inca way of life in these high up communities. We reached camp that evening at 5pm at an altitude of 10, 824 ft. Day 1 was a long, very hot, tiring day, but we knew that Day 2 would really be the hardest. Most of the camp was asleep by 8:30pm ready for an early day to come.
Day 2: We were on the trail at 6:30am preparing to hike 11 hours, 10 miles, at altitudes dropping to 9840 ft and rising to the highest at 13, 776 ft. at the top of Dead Woman's Pass. That is exactly what I felt like when we reached it before noon. Not only were the distance, the altitude, and the incline challenging, the actual trail was trying. The trail is in ruins from the original stone path. Very uneven path with many, many, many uneven steps. It will wear on the ankles and the knees. Going up you exert so much energy and find yourself with heavy breath. Downhill was easier on the lungs, but brutal on the knees and ankles. Day 2 was a feat. There were moments I was moved forward only by sheer will. I was spent when I finally arrived at camp that evening, literally very proud of the ground I had covered. Day 2 was the example of why I wanted to do this. The trek. The trip to Peru by myself. To test my limits and see what I was capable of.
Day 3:We set off a little later today and had a much easier trail to cover. Our starting altitude was 12300 ft. The decline was not as sharp, but very uncomfortable on the knees after yesterday. It was a pleasant day. We stopped at a few ruins and had the opportunity to really enjoy the beauty of our surroundings. What an incredibly beautiful place these mountains are. It is amazing how the Incas created such a powerful civilization in such an inhospitable place on the sides of these high, high mountains. We arrived to Day 3s camp early, for lunch. This camp also offered showers and beer. I had both. I deserved them. Still an early night. Machu Picchu awaited at sunrise.
Day 4: We started our hike at 4:30am. In order to watch the sun rise on Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate, we had to. It was an easy hike (except the portion of the trail where I was climbing stairs so steep with my hands and feet). Everyone was moving quickly, feeling the urgency to "get there." At 6am we reached our destination. Marveling at that sight made all of the struggle worth every minute. I would not have wanted it any other way. The bus riders were robbed of something special. We spent a few hours with our guide touring Machu Picchu. The knowledge and the craftsmanship of this civilization was unmatched. The Spanish never found Machu Picchu hidden high in the mountains. And yet it's still such a mystery that it simply disappeared...
Machu Picchu was "discovered" by Hiram Bingham 100 years ago. Although the natives knew it existed, it was long hidden under the forest. Sidenote: Hiram Bingham, a Yale professor and anthropologist, was the basis of the character Indiana Jones. It only took 6 years to uncover the massive citadel and the miles and miles of road, but he also had thousands of local men working to uncover the remains.

Murphy's Law

What can go wrong, will go wrong. Everything from a cold shower to missed flights to unavailable Internet to forgotten luggage. Lots of bad luck. I met with my trek guide at 8:30 Saturday night. She told me that she would pick me up in a few hours at 4:45am the following morning--oh, and I would miss my flight back to Lima at the end of the trek. I was unable to find a phone to call to change my flight. The hostel's Internet wasn't working either. On a wing and a prayer I emailed all of my flight details to my mom for her to change for me. I would not know an answer for 4 days when I arrived back in civilization, also known as the God forsaken town of Aguascalientes. Mom pulled through and my flight was changed--with a 35 minute layover in Lima. I also ran out of money. Had to call Mom this time--in tears. Three towns and 3 Western Unions later, I got the money. Again, thanks Mom! Well, my flight to Lima was delayed. I missed my connection. I was a day late to my lodge in the Amazon. They were very accomodating and worked hard to give me the experience I paid for. More flight problems that Mom helped me fix. More flight changes. Forgotten luggage. Now I'm back in Lima ready to come home tomorrow. I really don't know what else could go wrong!!!

Keep on bloggin'

I'm testing sending blog posts via email from my iPhone. Does it work???

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Off the grid until, well, I don't know. One adventure leads right into another this week. Will post if Internet is available.

cuy ew-wee!

I will leave the delicacy of cuy (that's guinea pig to you and me) to these Andean mountain folk. The dish alone cost me more than all meals combined since I've been in Cusco. I took a picture to help me explain what it looked like. It was very thin, fried with the skin and sort of battered in polenta. I couldn't find the meat. It was combined with some gelatinous fatty substance and the skin. It's hard to think about. But I did order a pisco sour, Peru's national drink--very tasty. I also had alpaca skewers for lunch. They were seasoned with Andean herbs, quite good.
Sidenote: I am in a shoebox of a convenience store squeezed in corner typing this. I just looked down to find a stray dog in here sitting beside me. Whatever.
I have been searching for an establishment to serve me chicha that won't make me sick. I'm running out of time...
I'm meeting with my trek guide in about 25 mintues. He's going to brief me about the Inca Trail hike that begins tomorrow. I'm excited and apprehensive about this hairbrained idea. I don't know what I've gotten myself into....I'm praying for endurance and safety.
Another sidenote: things are dirt cheap here. Last night I bought to bottles of water and a roll of toilet paper that cost me less than $1. An hour on the Internet cost less than $1, too. I decided to take a cab back to my hostel this afternoon. The walk would have taken me about 40 minutes. The ride, $1. Peru's nickname should be Everything's A Dollar!
The best and longest conversations I've had have been with child street vendors. They're only trying to sell me junk, but I humored them and helped them practice their English.
I walked the very narrow cobblestone streets today. It was easy to get winded on the hills, and there are a lot of hills. The Spanish invaded in the 1500s. They destroyed yet another civilization but they were smart enough to know good construction when they saw it. Although many things were destroyed, the original Inca wall remains. No morter, stones shaped so well they've stood the test of time and earthquakes.
Happy trails!!!