Pura Vida!

I learned a new saying today: pura vida--literally the pure life. A saying the Costa Ricans have adopted to mean everything's good. How are you? Pura vida. Guess what, I just got a promotion! Pura vida!

I decided to say an extra day in San Jose to visit one of the many volcanoes here, Volcan Poas. I raised the blinds early this morning to a beautiful day. Pura vida. The tour was on it's way climbing the mountain past coffee plantations, strawberry farms, and fern nurseries under a bright blue sky. Pura vida. The travel guides warned about quickly changing weather conditions. Soon, the skies clouded up and it rained for the rest of the day. We hiked up to the crater lake that was hidden in a pit of clouds. I was only able to catch a glimpse of the terrain and the edge of the lake. I could smell it, though. It a pure sulfuric acid lake that's formed in the crater that, of course, cannot support any life. But it creates an interesting green color that steams and occasionally blows the world's highest geysers at 590'. Central Crater is a mile wide and over 900' deep (2nd largest crater lake in the world). Despite the rain the hike was nice albeit a little trying on the lungs because of the 8660' altitude.

We made our way back down the mountain to the Doka coffee plantation where I learned about harvesting and roasting coffee. Coffee beans are what built this country, and the combination of the perfect climate of the tropical rainforest, the perfect altitude, and the perfect volcanic soil are the reason why.

We finished our tour at the small artisan town of Sarchi recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical, colorfully painted ox carts that were traditionally used to transport coffee beans. Now it's a center for all kinds of Costa Rican crafts.

I've enjoyed my extra day here in San Jose, but I'm excited to get to Puerto Jimenez to see my friends! Bright and early in la mañana.

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¡Adios, amigos!

Today is my last day in Peru. I was going to spend my last afternoon walking around Lima Centro visiting some cathedrals and museums. It was going to fit perfectly into my schedule before I had to leave for el aeropuerto. I took a long walk to the Plaza de Armas. The roads were blocked around the plaza, and I pleasantly discovered that the changing of the guard in front of the Presidential Palace. I came to the plaza to see the famed Catedral. It was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535 who is also buried in a chapel. Over the centuries the cathedral continues to undergo construction and renovation (some due to earthquakes)but still maintains its colonial style. Pizarro was the Spanish conquistador that conquered the Incas and founded Peru. It wasn't until the 1820s that Peru won its independence from Spain. After touring the Catedral I walked a few blocks to the well know Iglesia de San Francisco. Although this church is in ill repair and a little worse for wear, it is the most visited church in Lima because of the "Lima baroque" style of architechture with the Spanish and Moorish influences. It was a beautiful church with the beautiful wood carved ceiling panels, the hand painted Spanish tiles, and hidden fresco paintings on the walls and ceilings. There was an incredible old library that was once used by the monks I was dying to take a picture of, but of course, no photos. One special treat of this old church is the catacombs below. There are an estimated 25,000 people buried in these catacombs hoping to be just a little bit closer to God. Eerie. The Spanish Inquisition made its way all the way over to South America. Lima has a museum dedicated to its history. I was looking forward to this museum. Closed. I stopped for lunch leaving enough time to visit the Museo de Arte. Closed. So much for planning.
Despite the many difficulties I've encountered on this trip, I have seen and done some amazing things. Things I wouldn't have had the opportunity to see or do if I didn't take a chance. Peru has a beautiful landscape of ocean, desert, mountains, and jungle steeped in history and tradition. I'm glad I came, but it always feels good to come home. Adios, Peru.

Woman goes batty while being held hostage in the jungle

My guide and I left the lodge at 6am to head over to another lodge owned by the same company, ExploNapo. This is where the Canopy Walkway is located and the ReNuPeRu project. The Canopy Walkway is one of the world's longest suspended walkways. It was opend in 1994 and is used for Amazon reserchers. It extends over 1/3 mile and reaches a height of 118 ft. The perfect vantage point for viewing Amazon vegetation and wildlife. We even spotted a toucan! After we hiked through the jungle and walked across the canopy, we visited the local shaman. He not only serves the local villages, he also is part of the ReNuPeRu Ethnobotanical Garden Project that teaches doctors and guests about the medicinal plants of the Amazon. It was fascinating to hear about the different plants, trees, barks, saps, and so on that are used to treat anything from snake bites to arthritis to post-delivery care. The shaman performed a ritual to cleanse negativity and bring good luck (a ritual that couldn't have been more timely!). I'm not sure what he did exactly because my eyes were closed and he was behind me. He was chanting, and I smelled herbs burning. After that he drew a toucan tatoo on my arm. It was fun in the moment, but a nice souvenir I'll have for the next 10 days before it fades away.
Afterwards we went looking for the pink freshwater dolphins. We didn't find any. I was able to see some of the Victoria Regia lily pads. They were located in a freshwater lake on an island in the middle of the Amazon River. We are now in the dry season. In only a few more days boats will no longer be able to access the lake because the water level will be too low. I was lucky to see the famously big lily pads. Although these weren't the biggest or prettiest. On the ride we spotted lots of birds (kingfishers, hawks, toucanets) and a few sloths (even a momma sloth with her newborn baby attached to her chest).
After dinner we took a night canoe float to find some night wildlife. Because the canopy covers the cloudy sky above, it is pitch black in the jungle. We were in a tiny, hollowed out, wooden canoe equipped with only paddles and flashlights. The darkness of the jungle is scary in a canoe, especially when you think you're going to tip over into the murky waters of the Amazon River. We saw a few spiders. Very large spiders. And an Amazon boa constrictor in a tree. Just below in a neighboring tree we saw an innocent frog who was soon to be his dinner.
Early Sunday morning I was awakened because I had to go to the bathroom. I heard fluttering wings that were too big to be a moth, although I was hoping it was only a moth. I jumped out of the mosquito netting and ran quickly to the bathroom. I could still hear the fluttering, so I quickly ran back under the safety of the netting on my bed. I flashed my light under the other bed. Two bats flew out from under my bed TOWARDS MY FLASHLIGHT!!! I think I was too scared to scream. For the next 1.5 hours I watched 8 more bats fly out from under the bed. OH, MY GOD!!! After I felt certain that the bats were gone, I started getting ready for breakfast, packing my things to leave. There was a resident green parrot perched on the railing outside my room. He greeted me with an Hola, buenas dias. So I said good morning back. He had followed me into my room. I wasn't sure how close to get to the parrot. Would he bite my face off? I don't know. But he wouldn't let me pass. He started hissing at me. Then he bit my shoe. I got around him and finished packing my bag. I was ready to leave the room, but he wouldn't let me. He was holding me hostage in my room! He hiss and bit more until I finally shuffled my way out. I later found out this parrot doesn't like women. After the bats and the parrots, it was time to move on.
The jungle is a fascinating place. Very alive.

Welcome to the jungle!

I arrived one day late for my Amazon adventure. The owner of the lodge has been very kind and accommodating. I was picked up early Friday morning to head 50 miles downriver to Explorama Lodge. The lodge is rustic and set in primary forest (untouched, undeveloped, virgin jungle--not a reserve). There is only limited electricity in the kitchen, dining "room", and "lounge."--which also happen to be the only places that are fully screened in. My room has 4 walls and no ceiling, only lattice covering the window opening. But I do have a private bath complete with cold water. At dusk kerosene lanterns are lit in the rooms and around camp. The shadows that are cast by jungle creatures gave me the willies. I slept soundly inside the safety of mosquito netting.
I met a great lady from Pennsylvania who brought a small group down to do some work for Adopt-a-School. She's been coming for years bring school supplies for the teachers and children. She trades things for their handicrafts, takes the handicrafts back to the states to sell, and sends the money back to the villagers. This money is enough to keep the school operating for another school year. A very special lady to these people doing very special work.
After lunch and a nap in the hammock, my guide took me over to visit the local village of the Yagua's (red people). Their culture is dying. Young people are attracted to the opportunities in the bigger towns and cities. The Yaguas have reconstructed a village for demonstration: culture, dances, dress. I danced and tried my hand (or mouth) at the blowgun. Nailed the target! They make money from selling their handicrafts. I bought a a few things. I even had the opportunity to cuddle a little girl's pet sloth. What an interesting creature!
It was early to bed for an early start the following morning.
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Perspective

I chose to do the trek because I wanted the challenge. I like pushing my limits, finding out where they are and see what I can accomplish on the way. Was it an unforgettable experience? Yes. Was it enjoyable? Absolutely. Even the hard parts. Would I do it again? Don't need to.
Walking into the remoteness of one of the world's biggest mountain ranges provides perspective. As I marveled at God's great creation, I quickly realized how small and insignificant I am. So wrapped up in my own life, I'm missing the big picture. It really made me think about my future. What am I doing to make my mark? What will my legacy be? Something to ponder...

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Machu Picchu, nice to meet you!

I was going off the grid for 4 days. There was nothing I could do about rearranging my travel plans, so I lived in the moment and had an incredibly wonderful experience hiking the Inca Trail. The Inca Trail, high in the Andes Mountains, is a 31 mile hike on the original road that led to Machu Picchu, the Lost City of the Incas. I had the option of a 20 minute bus ride up the side of the mountain, but where's the adventure in that?
Day 1: The official check in was at 10am, and we were on our way. The starting altitude was 8790 ft. The altitude would pose an issue to any hiker even natives of the Sacred Valley. The solution was to chew coca leaves or drink coca de mate tea--and lots of it! Day 1 climb was not too bad, but we did cover a lot of ground, about 9 miles. We saw our first Inca ruins and learned a lot about the Inca way of life in these high up communities. We reached camp that evening at 5pm at an altitude of 10, 824 ft. Day 1 was a long, very hot, tiring day, but we knew that Day 2 would really be the hardest. Most of the camp was asleep by 8:30pm ready for an early day to come.
Day 2: We were on the trail at 6:30am preparing to hike 11 hours, 10 miles, at altitudes dropping to 9840 ft and rising to the highest at 13, 776 ft. at the top of Dead Woman's Pass. That is exactly what I felt like when we reached it before noon. Not only were the distance, the altitude, and the incline challenging, the actual trail was trying. The trail is in ruins from the original stone path. Very uneven path with many, many, many uneven steps. It will wear on the ankles and the knees. Going up you exert so much energy and find yourself with heavy breath. Downhill was easier on the lungs, but brutal on the knees and ankles. Day 2 was a feat. There were moments I was moved forward only by sheer will. I was spent when I finally arrived at camp that evening, literally very proud of the ground I had covered. Day 2 was the example of why I wanted to do this. The trek. The trip to Peru by myself. To test my limits and see what I was capable of.
Day 3:We set off a little later today and had a much easier trail to cover. Our starting altitude was 12300 ft. The decline was not as sharp, but very uncomfortable on the knees after yesterday. It was a pleasant day. We stopped at a few ruins and had the opportunity to really enjoy the beauty of our surroundings. What an incredibly beautiful place these mountains are. It is amazing how the Incas created such a powerful civilization in such an inhospitable place on the sides of these high, high mountains. We arrived to Day 3s camp early, for lunch. This camp also offered showers and beer. I had both. I deserved them. Still an early night. Machu Picchu awaited at sunrise.
Day 4: We started our hike at 4:30am. In order to watch the sun rise on Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate, we had to. It was an easy hike (except the portion of the trail where I was climbing stairs so steep with my hands and feet). Everyone was moving quickly, feeling the urgency to "get there." At 6am we reached our destination. Marveling at that sight made all of the struggle worth every minute. I would not have wanted it any other way. The bus riders were robbed of something special. We spent a few hours with our guide touring Machu Picchu. The knowledge and the craftsmanship of this civilization was unmatched. The Spanish never found Machu Picchu hidden high in the mountains. And yet it's still such a mystery that it simply disappeared...
Machu Picchu was "discovered" by Hiram Bingham 100 years ago. Although the natives knew it existed, it was long hidden under the forest. Sidenote: Hiram Bingham, a Yale professor and anthropologist, was the basis of the character Indiana Jones. It only took 6 years to uncover the massive citadel and the miles and miles of road, but he also had thousands of local men working to uncover the remains.

Murphy's Law

What can go wrong, will go wrong. Everything from a cold shower to missed flights to unavailable Internet to forgotten luggage. Lots of bad luck. I met with my trek guide at 8:30 Saturday night. She told me that she would pick me up in a few hours at 4:45am the following morning--oh, and I would miss my flight back to Lima at the end of the trek. I was unable to find a phone to call to change my flight. The hostel's Internet wasn't working either. On a wing and a prayer I emailed all of my flight details to my mom for her to change for me. I would not know an answer for 4 days when I arrived back in civilization, also known as the God forsaken town of Aguascalientes. Mom pulled through and my flight was changed--with a 35 minute layover in Lima. I also ran out of money. Had to call Mom this time--in tears. Three towns and 3 Western Unions later, I got the money. Again, thanks Mom! Well, my flight to Lima was delayed. I missed my connection. I was a day late to my lodge in the Amazon. They were very accomodating and worked hard to give me the experience I paid for. More flight problems that Mom helped me fix. More flight changes. Forgotten luggage. Now I'm back in Lima ready to come home tomorrow. I really don't know what else could go wrong!!!

Keep on bloggin'

I'm testing sending blog posts via email from my iPhone. Does it work???

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Off the grid until, well, I don't know. One adventure leads right into another this week. Will post if Internet is available.

cuy ew-wee!

I will leave the delicacy of cuy (that's guinea pig to you and me) to these Andean mountain folk. The dish alone cost me more than all meals combined since I've been in Cusco. I took a picture to help me explain what it looked like. It was very thin, fried with the skin and sort of battered in polenta. I couldn't find the meat. It was combined with some gelatinous fatty substance and the skin. It's hard to think about. But I did order a pisco sour, Peru's national drink--very tasty. I also had alpaca skewers for lunch. They were seasoned with Andean herbs, quite good.
Sidenote: I am in a shoebox of a convenience store squeezed in corner typing this. I just looked down to find a stray dog in here sitting beside me. Whatever.
I have been searching for an establishment to serve me chicha that won't make me sick. I'm running out of time...
I'm meeting with my trek guide in about 25 mintues. He's going to brief me about the Inca Trail hike that begins tomorrow. I'm excited and apprehensive about this hairbrained idea. I don't know what I've gotten myself into....I'm praying for endurance and safety.
Another sidenote: things are dirt cheap here. Last night I bought to bottles of water and a roll of toilet paper that cost me less than $1. An hour on the Internet cost less than $1, too. I decided to take a cab back to my hostel this afternoon. The walk would have taken me about 40 minutes. The ride, $1. Peru's nickname should be Everything's A Dollar!
The best and longest conversations I've had have been with child street vendors. They're only trying to sell me junk, but I humored them and helped them practice their English.
I walked the very narrow cobblestone streets today. It was easy to get winded on the hills, and there are a lot of hills. The Spanish invaded in the 1500s. They destroyed yet another civilization but they were smart enough to know good construction when they saw it. Although many things were destroyed, the original Inca wall remains. No morter, stones shaped so well they've stood the test of time and earthquakes.
Happy trails!!!

Mountain Momma

Cusco es fantastico! The view fom the airplane window was georgeous flying over miles of remote, snow capped mountain tops. I was a bit unnerved during the landing. I realized I'd never landed in the mountains before. Denver is not the mountains. Denver is near the mountains. The pilot made a tight, hairpin turn around a mountain to position the plane for the landing on the runway. The wing was less than 200 yards from the side of the mountain.
I immediately felt the affects of the altitude. Thankfully, I´m only feeling minor symptoms of shortened breath and a small headache (but that could also be from my headband--my flat iron stopped working this morning. Ahhh!). I'm taking my time, though, and feeling alright. I am going to try some coca tea tomorrow. I saw a woman in tradition dress sitting on the steps of a cathedral tearing coca leaves to sell in small batches. I'm one up on Carl Pillington--I haven´t had to use the oxygen...yet.
There is a red flag waving across from my hostel. My hotel manager warned me against the 'unregulated' chicha. Something abou the bacteria and my unaccustomed system could make for a very unpleasant experience. Instead, he suggested I try it at an esablished restaurant. Fine.
I experienced a first today. I´ve never had to purchase my own toilet paper for my hotel room. I wasn't the only one in the store doing that.
I knew from the moment I landed there was something special about Cusco. There is a tradition and history they've maintained that you can see. Women in traditional dress: the hats, 2 long braids, full, knee-length skirts, wool knee socks, and the colorful blankets tied around the back full of goods, or infants. Today there was a celebration called Programa de General de Fiestas del Cusco. School groups from around the city performed in traditional dress in the Plaza de Armas. It was fabulous. Thousands of people were in the square and on the sidewalks to watch. I love that they have held on to their customs. Made me smile.

I'm looking forward to walking around the historic part of the city. It's said the city was designed and layed out in the shape of a puma.

It is time for me to be off the streets. It becomes not as safe after 8. Adios. Buenos noches.

Walk the Line

Today was a fantastic day! I finally felt like I've started my trip. My guide, Oscar, recommended we start with Chauchilla Cemetery first for two reasons: let the morning clouds burn off before I fly over the Nazca Lines and we'll beat the crowds. As we were driving, he pointed out the different crops being grown (cotton, onions, corn, cactus for their green dye, paprica, and a tree that is grown and harvested for its medicinal properities to stop bleeding. I was surprised to learn that the desert could support this kind of agriculure, but there are green valleys. Nazca sits on the Nazca Fault Line and has suffered several recent devastating earthquakes. Oscar pointed this out, and I can only assume that that was the explanation for the conditions, rubble, and construction. In a conversation with Oscar I asked him how he learned English. He said as a couch potato; he watched a lot of tv with subtitles. And he's been able to improve on it with his job in tourism.

We were alone at 8:30 in the morning in the middle of the desert. This is the kind of desert where wiseguys offer one-way trips. There it was in the middle of nowhere--Chauchilla Cemetery, an ancient necropolis. Grave robbers plundered the tombs long ago and left the remains scattered across the desert where they stayed. The underground burial tombs were discovered in 1920 and some mummies date back to 200 AD. The mummies have been well preserved due to the arid desert climate. Remarkable. All artifacts are genuine, but the excavated tombs have been recreated. What's more eerie than seeing ancient Peruvian mummies staged in tombs out in the open air desert are the real human bones still left scattered in the sand.

The Nazca Lines were amazing! I survived the 30 minute flight in a 5-seat Cessna. It was a very bumpy ride that turned my stomach In. Side. Out. The pilot circled each figure a few times for photo ops. This allowed for everyone to see them from their side of the plane. I just hope the lurcing plane didn't affect my pictures. I was snapping away like crazy frantically trying to find the figures below then aiming my camera. They are such an enigma. How? Why? But in person they seem so unassuming. There are hundreds of lines, geometric shapes, and figures throughout the Nazca valley. They even overlap and cross through each other. I find it amazing that after all of these hundreds of years not only has time left them alone, man has, too. Nazca is the perfect place for something like this to be created and survive: the stones are made of gypsum which becomes sticky with dew allowing them to hold their place, and the heat absorbed by these rocks helps to create a protective barrier against the winds.

Nazca is a place rich in history. The town is small has hasn't really changed itself for the tourism. It's raw and real. I like it. Although it was out of the way (15 hours roundtrip on a bus), the trip down the Panamerican Highway to experience Nazca and the desert was worth it.

Interesting things: the airport tax at the airfield the see the Nazca Lines includes a single use of toilet paper. I thought it was a paper towel in case you got sick on the flight and had to clean up a mess. I figured it out later.

You can nurse a baby while walking down a public sidewalk in Nazca, Peru.

There are no Health Inspectors keeping watch over establishments selling food. I entered what I thought was a little market. Instead I entered a disqusting butcher market that had raw meat set out on the counters at room temperature with 6 stray downs attacking the scraps left on the floor. I passed on eating meat for the rest of my time in Nazca.

The long and windy road

What a day! I have finally arrived in Nazca, and my blood presure is starting to return to normal. I thought the overnight trip I booked to Nazca was part of an organized group tour. It was not. The company simply arranged all of my travel. A strange man (who didn´t speak English) picked me up and took me to the clusterf$!% they call a bus station. I finally figured out how to check my bag, find the right terminal, and board--for a 7.5 hour bus ride. For the last 2 hours of the trip my stomach was in a knot thinking I missed my stop. When you don´t know where you are in the middle of the desert in the dark, it can be scary. Especially knowing what I paid for this little side trip and wondering how I in the world I would get to Nazca before the morning. But it all worked out. I´m in a very nice hotel. In fact the nicest place I´ll be staying this trip.
I don´t enjoy busses, but I do enjoy the opportunity to see the scenery and get a feel for how the people live. Over half of Peru´s population lives in poverty. Not food stamps, section 8 housing, get my clothes at Goodwill poor. For 7.5 hours we drove past a few hundred miles of remote, shanty town, how to they survive? poverty. The drive south from Lima the landscape has the ocean view on the right and the mountains on the left. This turns into desert. Dry, dusty, nothing around you desert. To be continued...
I´m at an Internet cafe and the clerk just rolled down the metal door and turned the lights out. I guess that means get out!

Lo siento. No hablo Espanol.

Durn Spanish keyboards! It took me 3 minutes (before asking) how to type @. It's simple--alt/6/4. Who doesn't know that?!?

My flights went smoothly, and I landed in Lima just before 11 last night. There is a mob, I mean a mob, of people waiting outside. It was a little overwhelming, especially when I didn't see my hotel driver holding a sign with my name. I waited 20 minutes. No one. I braved the bombardment of taxi drivers just picked one. My driver told me that Peruvian elections were held earlier that day and a new president had been elected--Ollanta Humala. Many Peruvians are worried about his leftist, radical views. His ideas have been compared to Venezuela's Hugo Chavez. He also told me that Limeños are loco drivers...I've heard that before...and experienced it today. These drivers live and die by their car horns. I fell asleep to the sound last night and was awakened by it this morning (Only because I didn't know my hotel window was open all night. I won't mention that it was on the first floor. It finally made sense why everything seemed so loud!). I don't think I'm worried about dying from malaria anymore. I'm worried I won't make it back because of this insane traffic! Driver guffaw at pedestrians. An intersection must be pretty special to have a pedestrian crossing signal--I walked all over Miraflores today and only found two.

I rested well last night and before I left for the day, the hotel manager spoke to me about her mistake in failing to have a driver waiting for me at the airport. She was very kind and apologetic. She's going to arrange to have a driver take me to the airport Friday to make up for it. That's nice because they only offer complimentary airport pickup.

I walked all over town town today. I went into a few shops that carry souviners and Peruvian handicrafts. Maybe it's the beautiful colors and patterns they weave that has drawn me here, but it's making me excited to go to Cusco. I walked to the Indian Market down to El Parque del Amor. There's this great sculpture of two lovers embraced in a kiss on top of the bluff overlooking the ocean. It would have been prettier if the weather wasn't overcast. I sat on a park bench and rested while I read some of my travel book: Lima is NOT known for it's beautiful weather. It's described as making London seem sunny. Most travelers blow in and out of Lima. It's not really known as a destination because of its poverty, pollution, and overcast skies. I'm figuring that out. I worked up an appetite, so I decided to find some ceviche. I found a little restaurant, pretended to read the menu, and settled on the fritoviche (lightly fried ceviche). Delicioso.

I stopped at Kennedy Park (There was a bust of JFK. I couldn't read the plaque, but I assume it's named after him for some reason.). As I was walking through the park, I realized there were cats everywhere. I don't know the story, but they were only in the park. It reminded me of the rabbits on the university campus in Victoria, BC. I sat down for a few minutes and turned into the cat lady. The first cat that came up and sat beside me? A black cat. It made me miss Poe a little bit.

Tomorrow, I leave for an overnight trip to Nazca. Buenos noches.

Hola! Bienvenidos a Peru!

I've decided to strike out on my own to discover a little of the adventure that South America has to offer. First stop, Peru! It will be a whirlwind as I travel in and out of the capital city of Lima to my destinations--the desert, the mountains, and the jungle.

June 6: arrive late to Lima

June 7: Lima

June 8: leave for Nazca (overnight)

June 9: see Nazca Lines & Chauchilla Cemetery, return to Lima

June 10: leave for Cuzco--Andes Mountains

June 11: Cuzco

June 12-15: hike on Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, return to Lima

June 16-19: leave for Iquitos--Amazon, return to Lima

June 20: leave late for home

June 21: arrive home